There are some luxury bags you purchase for the status symbol. Then there are others, like Balmain, that you shop because you want handbags that stand out from the crowd.
The French fashion house has long been known for its couture dresses, extravagant clothing, and, of course, its luxurious handbags. Blending its rich couture heritage with excellent craftsmanship and high-quality materials, Balmain handbags are rightfully investment pieces on their own.
But they are also a little more unconventional than other designer handbags, thanks to their unapologetic signature designs that focus on heavy gold jewellery hardware, recognisable logos, and bold architectural silhouettes. Balmain bags will always have that je ne sais quoi edge.
With a mélange of fabulous lines like the B-Buzz line, 1945 collection, and Balmain Anthem already gaining favourable reviews and becoming some of the most sought-after luxury items, Balmain's handbags have also attracted seasoned collectors due to their less ubiquitous style and their "if you know, you know" appeal as luxury status symbols.
So, how did Balmain start designing handbags? And why do its popular bags stand out from the rest? Here's the complete MAYFEYR breakdown.
Balmain’s History & Handbags Resurgence
The House of Balmain is, interestingly, one of the pioneers that revolutionized women's fashion after World War II. Founded by Pierre Balmain in 1945, the eponymous designer came from a family of dressmakers. His mother became one of his greatest sources of inspiration, as her elaborate outfits became a major influence for young Balmain's aesthetic after he graduated from the École des Beaux-Arts in 1933.
After several stints working under major fashion designers at the time, such as Robert Piguet, Lucien Lelong, and Edward Molyneux, he debuted his own collection in 1945. Balmain’s designs were also part of the post-war ‘New Look’ era that focused more on nipped-in waists, bell-shaped skirts, and extravagant embroidery. But, his groundbreaking Jolie Madame design, featuring trim tailoring paired with flowing skirts, easily became one of Balmain's earliest legacies.
Not only did Balmain gain a loyal following among the high society, but his reputation as the go-to couturier also caught the attention of Hollywood celebrities and royalty, including the Queen of Thailand, Marlene Dietrich, Katharine Hepburn, and Sophia Loren.
However, after his passing in 1982, the French label suffered a dip in popularity over the following decade. It wasn't until the appointment of Dominican designer Oscar de la Renta as the brand's creative director in 1993 that Balmain once again became a favourite for its custom-made eveningwear throughout the 1990s and early noughties.
So, when did Balmain actually gain a reputation for creating popular luxury handbags? It was all thanks to another young French fashion designer by the name of Olivier Rousteing. He joined the company in 2009, became the Creative Director in 2011, and ushered in a new age for Balmain like never before.
At just 25 years old, Rousteing made history as Balmain's youngest and first Black Creative Director. But his young age proved to be the right move, as the young maven cleverly transformed Balmain into a luxury rock-inspired label that still retained its couture identity.
For instance, his rebellious rock designs were always paired with strong couture DNA. He always included intricate techniques like baroque embellishments, along with pearl and crystal detailing, while also incorporating studded leather and metallic hardware. Needless to say, his avant-garde vision appealed to younger generations who were looking for sui generis designer labels.
He also knew how to create successful branding. From viral marketing campaigns to amassing a cult celebrity following, popularly known as the Balmain Army, Rousteing's designs were worn by stars such as Iman, Rihanna, Kim Kardashian, and Beyoncé, making Balmain a larger-than-life brand that remained relevant in the cultural zeitgeist.
But beyond transforming Balmain's ready-to-wear collections, Rousteing also single-handedly breathed new life into the house's handbags, creating several popular designs with the 1945 collection, the B-Buzz line, and Anthem.
The 1945 collection
Launched in 2020, the 1945 is undoubtedly Balmain's pièce de résistance. Spearheaded by Olivier Rousteing, the line drew inspiration from founder Pierre Balmain's history. The year is symbolic, as it marked the end of World War II along with the beginning of Balmain as a fashion house.
But what made the 1945 the it bag of all time was its iconic labyrinth jacquard pattern, derived once again from Pierre Balmain's vintage '70s designs. As informed by Balmain's official website, Rousteing was inspired by the sketch of "Le Mans," which featured a labyrinth pattern on a model's coat that was drawn in Spring 1971. But what made Pierre Balmain sketch the labyrinth in the first place? It was simply due to his love of mazes, which can be found in traditional French Renaissance gardens.
Not stopping there, the labyrinth pattern is also accompanied by abstract P and B motifs (the founder’s initials) and comes in the classic ivory and ebony colours. The design is then accentuated further with its signature gold embellishments. From gold medallions and gilded closures to magnetic hardware and chains, the contrast in colours evokes an unparalleled Parisian style.
The 1945 line also offers a myriad of bags in different silhouettes. Its popular soft clutches still remain high on the list, but over the years Balmain has introduced different varieties, from shoulder bags and crossbody bags to soft hobo bags and even larger totes.
B-Buzz line
Imagine designing a handbag after one of Pierre Balmain's famous blazers? That's the exact core idea behind Olivier Rousteing's wildly popular B-Buzz line.
First debuted in 2019, the B-Buzz handbags featured a sleek aesthetic that mirrored Balmain's iconic military blazers, in particular its signature six-button blazer. The design favours a structured, boxy top-handle silhouette with a fold-over flap and a detachable shoulder strap.
But while the bag was inspired by the blazer's DNA, Rousteing added a few details of his own, such as engraved snap hooks, metal feet, and a turn clasp shaped like a "B." The latter gives the bag an instantly recognisable logo that has, over time, become a must-have status symbol.
Throughout the years, the B-Buzz has also come in a variety of sizes and shapes. From the B-Buzz 18, 23, and 24, these new iterations can be carried as a top handle, on the shoulder, or even crossbody, making them some of the most versatile Balmain bags.
And, of course, the new reimaginations also include playful embellishment updates, including fringe, vivid pastel colours, PVC, and archival vintage travel styles.
However, the B-Buzz bag has also seen another distinct yet elevated version in the B-Buzz Dynasty handbags, launched in 2023. While the Dynasty line retains the B-Buzz's signature hardware, Rousteing reimagined the silhouette into a trapezoidal shape and introduced vintage-inspired details and dressier materials like embroidered velvet, rhinestones, and patent leather.
Balmain Anthem
Remember the nipped-in waist style from the New French Look that Pierre Balmain popularized back in the '50s? The French house's recent Anthem bag heavily drew inspiration from the "Jolie Madame" design.
With its soft, pillowy silhouette, the Balmain Anthem bag features a cinched, hourglass shape complete with a buckle strap that can be adjusted to your liking. Crafted in supple leather or shimmering satin, the Anthem's oversized buckle is finished in gold hardware, with a subtle metal PB logo on the back and another gold-embossed Balmain logo inside, for which Rousteing is known.
While the previous two popular handbags boast more structured shapes, Balmain's Anthem quickly became a new fan favourite for exactly the opposite reason. Not only can the bag be worn in multiple ways (as a shoulder bag that doubles as a clutch), but the Anthem also comes in a variety of sizes and materials, from small and medium to large. New versions are also available in suede leather, raffia-effect crochet, and even tweed.
The Anthem bag may be inspired by the founder's legacy designs, but its name actually serves as an homage that highlights Balmain's close relationship with some of the most gifted musical artists of the 20th and 21st centuries, as quoted on the brand's official website.
It's no surprise, then, that Taylor Swift carried the Anthem bag last year while out on a date with husband, Travis Kelce, as reported by Marie Claire.
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